| I have been working in the global eyeglass | | | | can, as always."For my business, this often killed the |
| manufacturing industry, supplying raw materials, parts | | | | chances of finding a non-Japanese source for |
| and accessories to distributors and manufacturers | | | | supplying my clients in the Chinese market. This way |
| around the world, since 1999. When I first began, there | | | | of dealing with a request is a dead end because it |
| were manufacturer pockets around the globe in | | | | does not meet the customer's needs. Here are the |
| various countries. As time went by, like many industries, | | | | reasons why:1) Optical customers have no way of |
| the demand for cheaper products consistently bore | | | | cutting huge standard sheets down to size. They need |
| weight on the drive to decrease cost, which led to | | | | the smaller cut sizes from the beginning.2) Their |
| manufacturing in China. The economies of scale as | | | | machinery is much smaller in scale than automotive, |
| well as the very low cost of manual labor helped to | | | | building, aerospace industries, therefore need smaller |
| drive the exodus to China. Difficult products are still | | | | cut sizes of material.3) Factory loading and receiving is |
| being manufactured in small clusters around the world, | | | | much smaller in scale therefore huge pallets cause |
| however the "meat and potatoes", the "grunt work" | | | | major problems. Hand-carry-able sizes of material are |
| has moved offshore to China.Titanium (pure or alloyed) | | | | essential.4) Scratches on the surface of the hard |
| wire and sheet is the preferred material to make | | | | titanium cannot be removed through polishing of parts |
| frames of these days. The unit cost is very expensive | | | | to get the gloss finish that is required for eyeglasses; |
| compared to ferrous metals, however the properties | | | | therefore best quality surface and proper international |
| are far superior. It is much more difficult to work than | | | | packing is critical.5) Eyeglasses are fashion. The |
| regular metals during the 200 step process to make a | | | | fashion industry is critically volatile and changing |
| pair of frames. Because of this, technology was often | | | | extremely quickly. The optical industry gets orders for |
| limited to countries like Germany and Japan who | | | | glasses and must deliver in the shortest possible time. It |
| invested a long time ago in developing processes to | | | | takes three months to make one order. Manufacturers |
| work this material. Japan has been selling a lot of its | | | | cannot be waiting three months for material before |
| technology to China in the past decade so that now, | | | | they start to produce. They choose the vendors that |
| standard titanium eyewear is usually made in China at | | | | can supply from ready stock or in the shortest time |
| a lower cost than Japan which has led to a lot of | | | | possible.6) One pair of glasses usually uses about |
| "restructuring" in the Japanese optical industry. Those | | | | 10-20 grams of titanium so even 20 kg of one size is a |
| companies that have a competitive advantage have | | | | large amount for a manufacturer. They need suppliers |
| survived (i.e. a specialty), however the "plane Jane | | | | who will provide smaller quantities.7) Quantities ordered |
| Vanilla" types are, to a great degree, gone.People do | | | | these days for eyeglasses have gone from tens of |
| not know this but it takes approximately 3 months and | | | | thousands, to thousands, and now are at minimum |
| 200 steps to make a pair of eyeglasses. There is a | | | | quantities of hundreds. Those hundreds are further |
| huge amount of outsourcing done to specialists who | | | | divided into dozens of colors making the SKU delivery |
| do various parts of the process. The titanium used in | | | | extremely small. Eyeglass manufacturers NEED |
| eyeglass manufacturing must have a very good | | | | access to small quantities of materials relative to the |
| surface quality. Because titanium is so hard (and yet | | | | big industries. Even in China, everyone is producing |
| so soft at the same time), it is easy to make deep | | | | now very small runs to meet the needs of the clients |
| scratches, but very difficult to polish it out. Here, not I | | | | who must provide a huge variety of product SKUs to |
| did not say "grinding" because grinding connotes | | | | the market.8) The shipping is also critical so being able |
| "making smaller", but instead use the term "polishing" | | | | to cut down to sizes that will be carried by the post |
| which results in a smoother, shinier surface with less | | | | office, or a very cheap courier is essential. Sending |
| blemishes. The end result is different, therefore the | | | | small quantities via Air Cargo, or Sea Cargo is |
| terminology is different.Because removing scratches | | | | prohibitively expensive. The buyers/the market forces |
| from titanium is difficult, the manufacturers demand the | | | | are driving the selling price down of the eyeglasses. |
| highest surface quality. Eyeglasses are a fashion, they | | | | Because eyeglasses from the manufacturer do not |
| are painted, plated or coated and then worn on the | | | | have a large profit margin, the manufacturers need |
| face. When you meet someone the first thing you see | | | | help cutting their costs; expensive shipping is something |
| is their eyes, and if they are wearing glasses you see | | | | people are always trying to do away with.9) Most |
| those. Because of this, the finished surface needs to | | | | eyeglass manufacturing of standard (non-niche) |
| be as blemish-free as possible. Without a smooth | | | | eyewear (and all metal eyeglasses) is done now in |
| surface, the paint/plating will not apply evenly and you | | | | China for the reason that China makes it MUCH |
| will end up with defective product that will not be | | | | CHEAPER than anyone else. Most ALL manufacturing |
| purchased by the wholesalers and distributors to put | | | | is done in China these days for the same reason. |
| on the market. In reality, most end-users may not even | | | | People make product in China to DECREASE THEIR |
| notice the level of perfection that the wholesalers are | | | | COSTS. For the vendors selling raw materials to |
| demanding. After all, how do you choose a pair of | | | | China, it is not possible to take 20%, 30%, 40% profit |
| glasses? You find a color and shape you like, put them | | | | margins unless you have an extremely specialized |
| on your face, look in a mirror to see if they suit your | | | | material or product. And titanium, even the special |
| image of yourself, then scan your friend/family | | | | memory alloys have become a commodity therefore |
| member/store clerk's face and response to see if their | | | | unfortunately though they are expensive to begin with, |
| impression of the frames on your face seem suitable | | | | a high profit margin is no longer a choice. It simply |
| to them. If so, you buy. If not, you keep looking. Most of | | | | cannot be done.10) Many suppliers do not really do the |
| the scratches and blemishes that the manufacturers | | | | "best they can". They think that mistakes caused by |
| are required to prevent would not be noticed by the | | | | "human error" are unavoidable. This simply is not true. |
| end user, quite possibly allowing manufacturers to | | | | All factories make defective product but that |
| decrease their defective count allow them to purchase | | | | defective product should never leave the factory to |
| lower-priced material and maybe make glasses even | | | | the customer. This means that proper safeguards |
| cheaper; however the companies that order the | | | | should be put in place in order to prevent that from |
| frames go far beyond that in detail.Because of this, the | | | | getting out. This can be done. Guaranteed. But the |
| manufacturers must have the best material available. | | | | question is do the people working the factory floor |
| This means a very high price compared to other | | | | really care? This is an issue. It is even MORE critical in |
| titanium used in non-eyewear industries. There is a | | | | this day and age to find a partner that DOES care and |
| constant drive to find a lower priced titanium material | | | | is willing to improve and take responsibility for products |
| for eyeglass manufacturing, but to date, the only | | | | that slip through their net and make it to the customer |
| material suitable is that which is made by the | | | | causing them inconvenience. We are always looking |
| Japanese. I have tried supplying US material, Russian | | | | for partners that are continually working to improve |
| and Chinese but all fail for their various reasons. The | | | | their capabilities in all aspects of the project.Even |
| U.S. material surface is not up to quality because it is | | | | though the eyeglass industry is very small compared |
| used mainly for "rougher" industrial purposes. The | | | | to the jumbo jet aircraft industry, there is a huge |
| Chinese and Russian is still unstable in terms of | | | | population in the world who need eyeglasses as a |
| content.The manufacturers also demand tight | | | | "medical tool" (lower income bracket), and those who |
| tolerances in the material diameter or thickness. Usually | | | | want the tool to be a fashion statement (higher income |
| tolerances for titanium in the optical industry are +/- | | | | bracket). Because of this, overall, the industry is quite |
| 0.02 or 0.0.3 mm.We have two levels of quality for | | | | large and the market is definitely there.Since things |
| titanium sheet here in Japan. One is like a "mirror finish". | | | | have changed so dramatically in the past 15 years, and |
| Obviously it doesn't reflect like a mirror, but it is smooth. | | | | the markets have truly become global, it is even more |
| This is what the manufacturers need. The other one | | | | essential for companies and individuals wishing to |
| looks like someone slathered a thin layer of epoxy on | | | | improve their market share to be always looking for |
| the surface and then sprinkled sand over it. This | | | | new innovative ways to improve their competitive |
| CANNOT be used to make eyeglasses.For titanium | | | | advantage in the market. Those that struggle to find a |
| sheet, usually anything under 3 mm thickness by Kobe, | | | | way to break down the barriers are the ones that |
| Sumitomo, Shin Nittetsu are usable as is. For thicker | | | | succeed. This is why competition is so important and |
| sizes, the surface gets too rough and we have to use | | | | why monopolies actually hamper the market. Without |
| a cold rolled sheet. This meaning I would order 4 mm, | | | | competitors there is no need to innovate, offer more |
| my supplier would have his supplier roll 5 mm down to | | | | to the consumer, improve your abilities, increase your |
| 4 mm so the surface was smooth. Again, this process | | | | knowledge-base and develop the market in new and |
| drives the price up on titanium that has already been | | | | unique ways. Without competition none of the |
| increasing dramatically in the past year.Eyeglass | | | | affordable luxuries we have would ever have been |
| factories are "small" compared to other industrial | | | | available at prices the average consumer could |
| processing plants. The machines are small, hand | | | | afford.Competition, innovation, education, a demanding |
| operated, and so forth. The size of the sheets that | | | | market of educated users and a burning desire to find |
| feed into the machines are limited. This means that | | | | "the next edge" are essential to a successful |
| standard sheets (usually 1m x 2m) need to be cut into | | | | business.Any companies who are willing to take those |
| about four pieces in order to be used by most | | | | challenges and try their luck at the market will likely |
| manufacturers.The manufacturers of the titanium will | | | | succeed if they keep at it and do not give up, in spite |
| not cut the standard sizes sheets, however the | | | | of the challenges and head-banging they will inevitably |
| wholesalers who buy bulk and stock in Japan will. They | | | | face. Any companies like that out there, interested in |
| know this is necessary for the industry. I have yet to | | | | entering the Japanese market with an unique service |
| find a company outside of Japan that is willing to do | | | | or product are welcome to contact me any |
| this; making the sale of sheet extremely difficult to the | | | | time!Cameron has lived and worked in Japan for over |
| optical industry from non-Japanese sources.My advice | | | | 15 years. Originally a researcher and educator he has |
| to suppliers outside Japan is this: This process may be | | | | a penchant for details and a natural born flair for |
| different from what you or your manufacturers are | | | | communication "soul to soul".His extensive experience |
| used to doing, but in this global age, we constantly | | | | in the culture, coupled with language fluency and a |
| have to be innovating and finding NEW ways to do | | | | deep understanding of Japanese ethics, morals and |
| business. We need to meet the ever-increasing | | | | thought processes has allowed him to develop a |
| demands of our clients and gain a competitive | | | | special niche market in the business world.While |
| advantage over the other rivals looking for business. | | | | working to develop a global presence for a titanium |
| The old established ways that worked so well for so | | | | raw material / parts & accessories distributor for the |
| long no longer apply.Here is an example of a situation | | | | eyeglass manufacturing world for 5 years, Cameron |
| that occurred many times over the past six | | | | saw the difficulties small/medium sized manufacturers |
| years:Customer: "I need 20 kg of Beta titanium sheet | | | | were having themselves trying to expand their |
| 0.8mm thickness, cut sizes of about 1m x 0.3m. Courier | | | | businesses outside of Japan. He decided to assist |
| is too expensive so please send via Post. We urgently | | | | those kinds of businesses get started |
| need this material and we need it in good | | | | successfully.Currently Cameron owns and operates a |
| condition."Supplier: " The minimum quantity 200 kg, and | | | | one-man (one dog) SOHO business designed to help |
| dimensions are 2m x 1m. Delivery is 3 months. We | | | | Japanese and foreign companies come together in |
| don't pack for international shipping. We don't cut down | | | | business in a very efficient, effective, and |
| to size. We only ship by courier. We send the best we | | | | cost-effective successful manner. |